Dear friend of F&P,
Vietnam had been on my radar for some time, so I was thrilled to have the opportunity to explore it first-hand, discovering the country from north to south. I started in the vibrant capital of Hanoi before travelling on to Hoi An, Huế and Ho Chi Minh City. From unforgettable cultural experiences and incredible food to fascinating history and wonderful local encounters, I packed so much into the trip and came away with a real love for this captivating country.
Vietnam is perfect for couples, families with older children and curious travellers who love food, history and culture. The best time to go is February to April, when the weather is at its best across the country.
HANOI: capital of Vietnam
Hanoi, meaning “surrounded by river”, was the perfect introduction to Vietnam, and I fell in love with it from my very first evening. There is an infectious energy to this city, from the motorbikes and street life to the wonderful sights, smells and rich cultural heritage that unfold around every corner.
One of the best ways to get under the skin of Hanoi is through its food. We explored local neighbourhoods overflowing with fresh produce, then put those ingredients to good use in a cookery class, making fresh rice paper rolls, traditional dipping sauce and pomelo salad with shrimps, followed by a lesson in making Vietnam’s famously delicious egg coffee. A wander through the bustling “36 Streets” with a local foodie expert took us into a traditional tube house to meet a family who earn their living roasting peanuts, a wonderful glimpse into everyday life.
We also hopped on the back of Vespas into the northern end of the Old Quarter. Hanoi’s traffic looks utterly chaotic from the pavement, but from the back of a bike it feels surprisingly exhilarating! We explored the French Quarter in open-air vintage American jeeps and saw the sobering Hỏa Lò Prison and the famous Train Street, where the railway passes just inches from café terraces.
Most memorable moment: a private, after-hours visit to the magnificent Temple of Literature. With the crowds gone, we could appreciate its beauty and tranquillity in a wonderfully intimate setting. A private Tai Chi lesson in a local park, in the rain, was the perfect contrast to the energy of the streets.
Where I stayed: CAPELLA HANOI and SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI
HOI AN: UNESCO World Heritage Site
After the energy of Hanoi, Hoi An felt like a breath of fresh air, with a gentler pace of life that was instantly welcoming. This beautiful riverside town is famous for its lantern-lit streets, colourful shophouses and rich trading history. We started early with a walking tour to beat both the crowds and the heat.
We hopped on a Vespa once again, zipping through emerald-green rice fields and watching farmers harvest the rice. We stopped at the home of a multi-generational family who make rice noodles, where we got stuck in and tried our hand at the process ourselves, before cycling to the river and returning by boat. It showed a much more rural, authentic side of Vietnam.
Most memorable moment: a once-in-a-lifetime private dinner at Hoi An’s Assembly Rooms, created exclusively for us by Chef Duc, one of Hoi An’s most recognised culinary figures. With his exuberant personality and wonderfully colourful character, Duc brought the whole evening to life.
Where I stayed: NAMIA RIVER RETREAT
HUẾ: former imperial capital
From Hoi An, we travelled north to Huế on a spectacular drive along the Hai Van Pass, a winding coastal road so beautiful it was showcased by the BBC’s Top Gear team. Huế was once Vietnam’s imperial capital, and its royal heritage, fascinating history and distinctive cuisine give it a very different feel from the places we had visited before.
We began in a local garden, discovering Cơm Muối, meaning “rice with salt”, a treasured culinary tradition once associated with the royal court. We explored the Imperial Citadel, the magnificent heart of the Nguyen Dynasty’s rule, and visited a local family descended from Vietnam’s royals, who welcomed us into their home and prepared a wonderful selection of traditional dishes. These personal encounters were such a special part of the journey.
Most memorable moment: dressing up in traditional royal heritage costumes for a photo shoot at Khai Dinh Tomb, an extraordinary imperial mausoleum that blends Vietnamese design with striking European influences.
Where I stayed: ANHILL BOUTIQUE HOTEL
HO CHI MINH CITY: formerly Saigon
Ho Chi Minh City was a world away from the slower pace of Huế, with its busy streets, constant buzz of motorbikes and fascinating history. A real highlight was arriving at Independence Palace in open-topped vintage Ford Mustangs, cruising through the streets before touring this important historical landmark.
The following day, we took a speedboat along the river to the Cu Chi Tunnels, a vast underground network used by Viet Cong soldiers during the Vietnam War. I also headed to Tan Dinh Market to put my bartering skills to the test, and came home with some rather questionable designer sunglasses!
Most memorable moment: squeezing into one of the tiny vertical entrances at the Cu Chi Tunnels, concealed beneath a cover of leaves. I quickly discovered there’s an art to it. I slipped, the leaves fell away and I would have been discovered in seconds!
Where I stayed: PARK HYATT SAIGON
There’s so much more to discover
After 11 incredible nights, I had packed in so much, yet there is still so much more of Vietnam to discover. Beyond its cities and historic towns lie dramatic mountains, beautiful beaches and bays, and countless other places waiting to be explored. Vietnam is such a wonderful tailor-made destination, with its variety lending itself perfectly to a personalised itinerary, combining different regions and experiences at your own pace.
I came home with a real love for the country, and plenty of reasons to return.
Start planning your trip to Vietnam
To start planning your Vietnam trip with Clare, WhatsApp us or call +44 (0) 1306 264005, email [email protected], or get in touch here. You can also read more about Vietnam on our website.